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Posts Tagged ‘horse riding’

Horse bits are the key to effective horse riding.  There are many dozens if not hundreds of different types of horse bit available in the market place with each one providing a different set of features which induce a particular effect on the horse’s behaviour.

The basic categories of horse bit are typically defined as Snaffles and Curb bits. Snaffles allow the rider to control the horse via direct pressure transmitted through the bit i.e. the same quantity of force exerted by the rider is applied to the horse via the bit.  In the case of a Curb bit the force is increased through the principle of leverage due to the design of the bit . Very simply a Curb bit can be pictured as a capital ‘H’ where the degree of leverage exerted is dependent on the length of the sides of the ‘H’, known as the cheeks.  Also how far up or down the mouthpiece is i.e. how high the ‘-’ on the ‘H’ is, or more acurately the ratio between the ‘purchase’ and the ‘level arm’ impacts the severity of the bit and its action on the mouth and head .

It is essential at this juncture to point out that this fundamental difference between a Snaffle and a Curb bit, and the difference in force applied to the horse, requires that the rider carefully evaluates the need for a Curb bit.  They must also take a good honest look at their horse riding skills and their ability to use the Curb bit correctly. In fact don’t fit one without appropriate training.

It is often stated that the Curb bit gives greater control. The word control can suggest the need to inflict discomfort on the the horse to be the master and this is wrong . A better view is the Curb bit allows you to ‘instruct’ the horse in what you want more firmly, fairly and effectively with a Curb vs a Snaffle. As one develops as a rider the instructions can become more sophisticated and result in the ability to trigger a wider range of movement from the horse .  Also remember as you develop as a rider your skills will become more subtle and you will loose the somewhat narrow view that the bit ‘controls’ the horse.  For example you can ask the horse to move in certain ways using just your legs and seat and not just yank the horse with the reins. 

More advanced riders that have begun to master the art of subtle and effortless riding sometimes progress to double bridles e.g. Weymouth bit and Weymouth Bradoon.  At this point the rider is fine tuning their interaction with their horse, achieving fine levels of control and responsiveness without any of the roughness and heavy handedness associated with the Curb in the hands of an junior rider. 

To summarise the Curb bit is an essential tool for the more experienced rider whom is progressing with their horse to different levels of horsemanship .  However you must be sure that both you and the horse are ready for that move. If you are sure you are ready to evolve to using a curb bit for your horse but are not totally sure on the type always err on the side of caution and go for a milder bit . As always take advice from experienced riders and more than one if possible.

If you live very close to the great outdoors, are lucky enough to have a sprawling ranch or an estate nearby, then you could be set up for many great riding adventures ahead. In these cases you may be perfectly happy to live with and to enjoy your horse without any need to travel, but the majority of us will need to transport our animal from time to time. The scale of your travels will determine the type of transportation that you select, but if you do think that you are going to be competing over great distances, then you will have to be very careful how you select your horse trailers.

For simple situations, you might just want to consider horseboxes, which themselves come in a variety of sizes. If you don’t intend on travelling far, these might be an acceptable purchase for you, but you should note that in general horses will not be too happy in a principally confined space for long journeys. If you are thinking about buying something second hand, you need to be very critical when buying a horse box. Its integrity should never be in question, it should show no signs of rust or decay or wood rot. We all know that travelling can be somewhat dangerous at times and you should not cut any corners when selecting transportation for your prized possession.

There are a variety of different shapes and sizes available when it comes to the selection of horse trailers. By all means listen to the experts when it comes to the different configurations, but you should know what your horse is happier with before you make that final selection. In many cases it might be acceptable for you to load your horse straight in, but many experts tell us that horses normally prefer to be travelling at an angle. The size of your horse will also dictate your choice here, as in some cases it is simply not possible to fit particularly large horses in at the slanted angle.

Some trailer manufacturers, notably the company that makes equitrek horse trailers, offer you the option of loading your horse in backwards, which they maintain will significantly reduce fatigue and the stress level. This company also specialises in producing transportation for overly large horses and their models are very popular in the industry today.

Other factors for your consideration include the choice of ramp or step. See if you can find this out first, as some horses have an aversion to one method of entry over another. Certain horse trailers also feature living quarters, to allow the caring owner to overnight very close to their horses. You might consider this option against your hotel budget and especially if you spend many a weekend away on the show circuit. Either way, all good horse trailers have an area for your tack storage and equipment.

Pay attention to the overall construction of your horse trailer and remember that the sturdier the better, especially in the unfortunate case of any accident. Make sure that a good airflow is possible, either through drop-down windows or slats, so that in warm weather the horse is comfortable during its journey. Your careful choice from the large variety of available horseboxes or horse trailers will help to add to the overall magic of your equestrian adventure.

The different types of horse bits available can be somewhat overwhelming.  To the casual observer why the huge variety?   This variety has arisen over time in response to the needs of different riders and their specific activity.  Also what might be surprising to the non horse person is the sheer number of different types of horse based activities there are.  This variety has been an important driver in the origin of differently performing horse bits and especially in the competitive sphere where winning is important.

Probably the most commonly known horse activities are horse racing, equestrian events such as show jumping, and sports such as polo and driving.  The different horsemanship requirements in these very different areas require different horse bits to maximise the chance of success. 

In horse racing the Racing Snaffle or more generally the Dee-ring snaffle is one of the most widely used designs.  The Dee-ring snaffle has two rings either side of the mouthpiece which are shaped like a “D”. The straight bars of the Dee-ring is pulled against the side of the mouth opposite to the rein pulled, engaging with the side of the horse’s mouth to provide the ability to guide the horse and turn as required in a race.

Eventing is a multi-discipline event involving dressage, cross-country and show jumping and it is the wide variation in the skills required that tests the horse and rider to the limit. From the viewpoint of the event rider there are seemingly competing issues that might confound choosing perfect multipurpose horse bits.  On paper one needs very specific control during dressage, somewhat more free rein for jumping so that the horse can gain time between fences and finally in the case of cross country allowing the horse to efficiently apply power, without too many distractions.

In show jumping in general it is popular to use a bit that gives more control especially with a heavier horse that might lean on the bit or take hold.  Gag bits are a popular solution and when rein pressure is applied the bit slides upward rotating slightly in the mouth so giving a firm signal to the horse. Show jumpers find the Cheltenham a popular type of gag bit. The Cheltenham gag is a specific gag bit often used by show jumpers.  It has “eggbutt” rings, which remedies the problem of pinching found with the common loose ring snaffl.

Curb style bits are used where leverage is required which the snaffle cannot achieve.  In show jumping the swales 3-in-1 which is a modification of the old Swales driving bit has become popular with show jumpers whom have found it effective with strong horses which are common in show jumping events .  Also as the Swales doesn’t generate any poll pressure it works nicely with horses who tend to go overbent. 

Some horses have a tendency to rush off after clearing a fence and can therefore make control and judgement of next obstacle more difficult. It might be easy to opt for a curb bit that will pull up the horse but as is often the case it is desireable to train the behaviour into the horse rather than force behaviour by control. Be aware that a horse that rushes his fences may be reacting to a bit they are finding uncomfortable .

For dressage except for the upper levels, where the double bridle is allowed, horses are constrained to only go in snaffles. And only certain type of snaffles as well. Cross country is more flexibly governed and gag bits are popular choices .

The types of issues that the every day horse rider has to address in their choice of horse bit are not far removed from the issues of the experienced professional riders in horse racing, show jumping and the like.  However the effectiveness of the relationship between rider and horse is typically achieved through the intelligent hands of the rider and not using a specific bit to fix a particular problem

There is nothing really quite as spectacular as the picture of a horse with a woman or man riding at pace through the country side, in full flight as it were. The animal along with the rider recognise unconditionally what the other needs and expects and this is evident the way that the equine alters course and obeys all the requires of the master. This sort of control will take some time to develop and it’s not just a mere coincidence that your rider has the capacity to practice this kind of level of management by any means. Alternatively, it is a mix of training and practical experience and owes a great deal to the correct choice as well as fitment of the bridle.

For the inexperienced, horse bridles can appear to get rather complicated. The chances are that if you are passed one and then asked to place it on a nearby mount you would simply look blank as you looked at all of the connected items and even pondered exactly where they were to be set. Each and every item carries a precise function of course and horse bridles happen to have been developed over many years, building upon practical experience. Whenever applied correctly and, more to the point, attached accurately, horse bridles allow the rider to exercise total charge of the animal.

Basically, bridles consist of 6 distinct pieces. While distinctive brands may differ a bit, these types of individual parts are typical. Keep in mind that when the bridle isn’t fixed correctly the mount won’t be capable of step adequately and it’s very unlikely to obey your orders. If you would like to sketch an analogy while using the automobile, you can claim that this horse bridle represents the particular steering wheel, the gas pedal and even brake, all combined.

Let’s examine a few of the separate parts. The nose band is usually positioned right above the nose. In some instances it’s mainly cosmetic, but various other bridle designs count heavily on the nose band to tug that horse’s head downward. You should be watchful since it could hurt the actual equine or perhaps damage a bit of it’s bone structure, so this must be very carefully placed.

A brow band should go along the horse’s forehead and maintains your bridle in the proper location on the animal’s head. Moving farther down, the cheek piece attaches to the bit and thus directly to the horse’s reins. This part thus remains an essential aspect in connecting your rider’s wishes to the animal. The actual throat latch is an additional component that holds the bridle in its place helping to make certain that the whole thing does not slip off the horse’s head.

Make sure to select the right dimension bridle for your animal. Remember that you can get specific pony bridles for smaller beasts. The most important thing to keep in mind is that the component parts should not end up being connected too securely plus it usually takes a small amount of practice for you to get your fitment absolutely right. Even though the mount will show you in its individual manner when fitment is right, if you are a starter you may find it challenging to recognise the appropriate signs, thus don’t be scared to check with an expert.

Horse bits are a very important ingredient in the success of the horse and rider’s relationship .  Literally dozens if not hundreds of different types of horse bit can be purchasedso needless to say it can be confusing identifying what you actually need for your horse .

The various horse bit types are broken down into different categories based on the features they have and how they control the horse. Within such categories are sub-categories with bits having different variations on particular features plus additional attributes that enhance its basic features .

At the top level of our horse bits categories sits Snaffles and Curb bits.  The term Snaffle covers quite a broad category of horse bits however they all exhibit a single common feature in that they allow control of the horse via direct force from the rider by the pulling of one or both reigns.

Physically all Snaffle bits are formed from a straight bar or mouthpiece with rings connected with different amounts of freedom to move at each end. The bit sits in the horse’s mouthresting on the gums not the teeth, in the space behind the front incisors and the molars behind sometimes termed the “bars”.

These two main features of the Snaffle are key to the way the bit behaves .  The mouthpiece can be a single solid piece or a jointed piece . Solid mouthpieces often come made in moulded rubber or vulcanite which is softer on the horse’s mouth and often used for young horses whilst they are being introduced to the bit . The jointed bit results in the mouthpiece breaking when the reins are pulled inducing a “nutcracker” effect on the horses tongue which provides the control.  The joint can be a single break or it can be two breaks resulting in the mouthpiece forming a “U” shaped instead of a “V” shape. This modification can give the horse’s tongue more room and can also be kinder on the roof of the mouth.  

The severity of the action of the mouthpiece may be increased by changing the mouth piece from being a smooth material such as stainless steel to using twisted pieces. The effect on the horse can be signficant and as a responsible owner always be very mindful of the welfare of your horse and seek expert advice ensuring the problem you are trying to solve is in fact addressed by such a bit . 

As ever there is a balance between being too soft on the horse and not firm enough. Going for the soft option can lead to bad habbits that are then more difficult to address later on and being too agressive can cause the horse pain and discomfort and is just bad in every way.

The rings on each end of the mouthpiece of the Snaffle are how the mouthpiece connects to the reins . Whilst simple in concept they still come in different forms with each type giving subtle effects which together with the mouthpiece provide varying types of control to your horse.  To introduce you this variety we will introduce some of the more common ring features seen on snaffle type horse bits.

Loose Ring Snaffles are where the rings connected to the mouthpiece are free to rotate and move back and forth causing the horse to chew and hopefully relax and not pull against you .  A quite common problem however with Loose Ring Snaffles is that they can be pulled though the horse’s mouth, plus they can pinch the sides of the mouth .  That brings us to Fixed Ring Snaffles which are not free to rotate but can move back and forth.  The Eggbutt and the D-ring Snaffle are popular examples.  They have “D” shaped rings rather than “O” shaped and the straight part of the “D” functions to help prevent the bit being pulled through the mouth, ie. if forms a brace against the side of the mouth in both directions.  The Eggbutt has a slightly softer edge to it’s “D” and is therefore kinder to the horse’s mouth.

The fixed ring effects can be further enforced by using a Full Cheek Snaffle Bit where there is a vertical piece of metal on each end of the mouthpiece as well as the ring. This piece provides a larger surface area in contact with the mouth sides compared to the D-Ring and EggButt and often to help it stay in the vertical position “keepers” are used to hold it in place. Not only do full cheeks prevent pull through of bit they can provide a mild leverage effect and also encourage the horse to move in the direction required.

This is just a brief introduction to the features of Snaffle Bits.  As you can see by careful understanding of your horse’s behaviour and how to control him you can find a Snaffle bit to suit your needs.

You will need to choose a number of items of gear as you become all set to go horseback riding. A few of the items you may choose without a lot of forethought, yet others will take some deliberation. As one would think, equestrian saddles can be complex items and should be chosen very carefully, because an ill fitting saddle is likely to make the entire adventure not comfortable not merely for you personally, but also for the horse as well.

As many people are aware, horse saddles have been developed and perfected over many years and there are quite beneficial reasons regarding their rather unusual appearance. You should obtain and set up the saddle in line with the kind of riding you have at heart, yet most importantly you have to ensure that you check the actual fitment of your saddle on your own horse. If you’re somewhat new  to all this, make sure you get an accomplished rider or professional to help you put everything together.

Fundamentally, the saddle is made around what is known as a “tree,” which is basically a framework upon which the rest of the item attach. Traditionally, the actual tree is wooden, but it can be fibreglass these days. Typically it will be protected with leather. There are a few distinctive features such as the pommels and cantles, that also assist to increase the seat towards the correct location for complete command. Your legs may rest up against the saddle flap and the seat should always end up being securely fixed about the horse, of course.

When you are sitting in an English saddle, you should have a person to assist you so that you can find out if it really is properly attached. Get someone to sit on the saddle so the proper bodyweight is in location and make certain you can observe a fair quantity of space underneath the pommel as well as on top of the horse’s withers. You need to be in a position to place a couple of fingers directly into this particular space if it is properly set up. Ensure that the saddle does not impinge upon the shoulder movement of the actual horse.

When the saddle is fitted correctly, it shouldn’t become too tight along the horse’s back and you should allow for motion appropriately. If the saddle is just too lengthy it will be uncomfortable and may even bruise the horse, so once again ensure that the measurements are taken appropriately even before you “road test” the actual saddle while in the real world. Make sure that you produce an agreement with the supplier of the saddle, so that you can make sure that it works for you prior to finalising the purchase.

In recent years, wintec saddles have grown to become popular because of their innovative construction and designs. The newest generation, the Equileather variety, includes a brand new man made material which is very similar in look and overall performance to leather, strong with high results. A further innovation now enables the gullet around the top of the saddle to get opened up and the gullet to be changed for an applicable size. You can find half a dozen different choices and this kind of development enables the actual seat to become specially suited to a horse’s wither.

Learning to ride horses correctly and effectively is arguably more difficult than learning to drive a car. Driving a car is primarily about following rules, and once you can drive one car you can pretty much expect to drive any car with a short period of re-adjustment. Horses have some rules but you have the added ‘feature’ of individualism. Learn to ride one horse and get on another and the techniques you used on the first horse might be ignored, or worse still interpreted differently by the second horse. Imagine driving off in your nice new car, hitting the brakes and nothing happening because you were using the wrong brake.

So in order to get a specific horse to work the way you want you need to grab a copy of his own individual instruction manual. Most riders just read a generic “horse riding basics” manual and never get around to reading “Grey Mare called Dotty – A Detailed Instruction Guide V4.2.  Author – Dotty !!!”.

Horse bits and their different types are numerous however there are 2 main categories that most fall into, namely Snaffles and Curbs. Most riders and most horses begin with a Snaffle and rein control of the horse occurs via direct pressure applied by the reins to the bit. Typically as the horse gets older and possibly more petulent and the rider more confident it is common to use different variations of the Snaffle such as a French Link Snaffle. If the horse becomes stronger relative to the rider a curb type bit such as a Swales might then be used which introduces leverage to control the horse.

The overriding thread that should always run through any choosing of a horse bit is if the horse likes it, goes well in it whether it be a Pelham, an Eggbutt Snaffle or whatever then go for it. However the discussions on the subject of bit choice typically revolve around the concept of control and a leverage bit with its power often is the conclusion. However quality horsemanship is achieved by identifying and refining a set of signals that your horse responds to. This is where the Double Bridle has arisen as a practical but somewhat specialist approach that combines features of both snaffle and curb bits.

The double bridle in the hands of an experienced rider, allows one to signal the horse in a more nuanced way. For advanced and sophisticated forms of riding such as dressage it is a popular bit.

The double bridle consists of four reins attached to two separate bits. The bits are a bradoon snaffle and a curb bit. A bradoon is a snaffle bit designed to be complementary to the curb bit. For example it must not too wide and placed higher in the mouth so it stays clear of the curb bit’s port. The curb bit or the Weymouth provides the rider with the ability to engage curb pressure when needed. The mouth pieces must be thin enough so the horse can accommodate the bits but not so thin that the tongue gets caught. It can be a good idea to search out a custom horse bit maker to to get a complementary set that will fit your horse.

The rider needs to master the art of keeping both bits under their control but only applying either as necessary. In dressage the rider will keep a soft handed contact with the bradoon bit and only employ the curb bit to get the horse to collect.

But here lies the magic of this dual bit solution and for the advanced rider it is the perfect solution.  But beginner stay away – your time will come.

The bit truly is the key to the horse. The relationship between horse and rider can be complex and many riders jump too quickly to conclusions regarding their riding problems . Horses are personalities in their own right and how you successfully control them, whether in horse racing, show jumping or just a sunday afternoon ride is not just about the bit. It is how you, your horse and the bit work together. Don’t forget it might be you that is the problem and not the horse. In this article we will review what different horse bits bring to this relationship, plus how you and the horse need to work in synergy .

For a working relationship between the rider and the horse the bit is essential for success , and finding the correct type of bit can be a challenge and often relying on luck in the end .

By correlating what you observe in your horse’s behaviour with the variety of bit features , one can become more confident about the bit you choose, however neatly categorising different horse bits and their specific function is difficult.  Many of the features of horse bits are often mixed together to form new varieties, however for our purposes in this article we will create some broad definitions that will form the basis of future discussion.

What follows is a brief overview of horse bit types.

Snaffles are known as direct pressure bits. When the rider pulls back on the rein, the same amount of force is transmitted directly to the horse bit . This style of bit is particularly effective when training a new horse but it can be used at anytime.

Curbs bits are different to snaffles and rely on leverage . The physical construction of the bit is designed to generate leverage amplifying the force applied by the rider . The longer the bit shank or cheek length the more force will be generated . Due to this leverage effect and potential discomfort to the horse, curbs are best used in the hands of a more experienced rider whom has developed a more sensitive touch.

Combos .  The snaffle and curb effect can be found in one bit with some bits such as Pelhams and Gags.

To complement these basic principles of horse control there are a wide variety of bit attributes giving great flexibility to the knowledgeable rider looking to address particular issues with their horse.  As an example the swales 3-in-1 bit offers a number of combinations of features.  The swales is popular with riders with strong horses.  This controlling force is applied through a curbing action and can be varied by choosing a specific shank length.

One can also choose a different physical composition for the bit, for example copper offers a affect that encourages the horse to salivate and can lead the horse to being more responsive to the bits action. Whereas a rubber bit is a gentler bit and often a good option for the younger horse as they are learning to correctly respond to the will of the rider and the action of the bit.

A stronger bit might subsequently be necessary if the rubber bit is not allowing sufficient control such as when the horse gets bigger or more canny.  Having said that when the horse works well with the soft bit do not feel obliged to change as the horse gets older. As the saying goes “if it aint broke dont fix it” which is often a good philosophy with horses .

Modifying port height in the bit is another variable you might consider. The height of the port can allow more room for the tongue but when the reins are pulled more force is put on the horse’s palate e.g. High Port Pelham. Be sure to carefully evaluate your requirments and speak to a professional if in doubt .

To summarise one can physically control the horse with direct or indirect force. Also the bit can be designed to provide greater or lesser amount of force depending on the horse.  The behaviour of the horse can be affected by adjustments to the mouth piece form and even its composition such as copper or rubber.

In coming articles we will look at some typical behavioural issues with horses that can be addressed by exploiting different bit forms.  Your horse deserves love and respect and never simply apply these general rules in a narrow minded way .  Your horse cannot talk but he is definitely trying to help you solve your problem.

A couple of generations back, equestrians might have thought that they lived in the arena of “hard knocks.” They may have got used to the idea of collecting a few bumps and bruises when they fell from a horse and perhaps got familiar with thinking about injury. Back in days past they quickly learned that there seemed to be a right way and an incorrect approach to fall from a horse, provided that you were able to basically “plan” that during the incident, obviously! However, unfortunately it’s also correct that many a horse riding career was minimised as a result of injuries sustained because of poor safety.

As time passed, leaders in the industry met up together with health and safety authorities, medical professionals and also regulators and created the first body protector. They were able to evaluate a lot of injuries experienced by riders who had fallen from horses and even could ascertain the injuries which were most typical, across the board. These kinds of original attempts at catering for our safety eventually ended in a certain standard that was put into practice by the British Equestrian Trade Association in the United Kingdom and what we recognise today as the trilevel BETA Standard.

The horse riding body protector is different from any other body protector which you might find. It’s specifically made to soak up impact not simply from the fall but also from a kick and should certainly end up being worn all the time whenever you’re in close proximity to, or upon the particular animal per se. Far away from becoming an imposition, a lot of riders do say that they feel much more assured any time sporting one. As you may know, self-belief can translate into a far more enjoyable experience, not to say a much more adept operation in some sort of tournament.

The body protectors these days are indeed stylish items. These are far more versatile and lightweight as opposed to preceding versions and for anyone who’re fashion conscious, they’re barely an imposition either. Without a doubt, they come in quite a number of different colours, versions and designs. They are really an essential part of the “picture,” nowadays.

The most recent standard in body protectors was basically set up by BETA as recently as springtime of 2009. The English standard complies with the many requirements within the related European rule, generally known as EN 13158-2000. For body protectors to generally be considered and also endorsed via the ruling organisations they have to match the set criteria regarding their ability to absorb bangs and also they should safeguard certain areas of the body. The individual foam sections by themselves must fit tightly together and you’ll find limits to the exact gaps which are allowed between each of your appropriate foam panels.

Identifying the different needs and correspondingly the different risks in front of everyone of us as we indulge in our preferred portions of equestrianism, there are three different graded levels of protection to be found in the realm of body protectors. For the majority of men and women, the protector given the purple designation is designed for multiple requirements and expressly is directed to prevent minor bruising, to cut back soft tissue injuries and eventually to prevent a certain quantity of rib fractures.

Most horse bits follow the principle of either direct pressure or leverage pressure.  The Pelham bit offers in principle the best of both worlds.  However using a Pelham is not a panacea , and like all horse bit choices it requires some careful evaluation of what the problem actually is that you are trying to solve, and what type of bit or attribute of a bit might help address that problem.

Just for some simple background horse bits most commonly are divided into two types. Snaffles are what are called direct pressure bits where force is applied directly to the bit and on to the horse. Curbs bits are leverage bits where the force is applied via reins to cheek pieces that act as levers so a stronger horse can in theory be controlled by the same forces used with a Snaffle. It is much better to avoid using the term “control” when discussing how best to ride your horse.  Consider using the term “signaling” instead. . In other words the horse does what you want him to do happily because during your training together your have instilled in your horse that specific signals created by specific rein control require that the horse does specific things.  Considering the concept of signals therefore, sometimes one needs to switch to a stronger signaling mechanism for certain situations.  It may be that 99% of the time a Snaffle works just fine but just 1% of the time the extra leverage of a Curb would just bring the horse back on track.  

Once you decide you need to tweek your snaffle work with a bit of curb action, the solution often is to fit a double bridal such as a weymouth and bradoon, where the weymouth provides the Curb mechanism and the bradoon is the Snaffle part.  The bits are truly used independently so require a good degree of horsemanship to work with two sets of reins .

However a issue can arise with fitting two separate bits into a horse’s mouth.  Is the horse’s mouth big enough ? .  Do not go down the road of sourcing these two bits with very narrow wire mouthpieces just to force the issue of getting this to work . This is potentially cruel. Don’t to it.  

The solution to this issue if offered by the Pelham bit . It provides in one neat package the features of a snaffle and a curb bit.  The familiar “99% of the time” signal of the snaffle can be achieved with one set of reins via the single mouth piece and the “1% of the time” stronger signalling achieved via the curb rein again via the single mouth piece.

All the features that one may look for in individual snaffles and curb bits can be obtained in a good quality Pelham such as high port pelham, rubber or vulcanite mouth pieces or longer cheek lengths.  If you are migrating from a Snaffle try going for one similar to the Snaffle you currently use.  Consider also going for a rubber mouth if not already doing so as you’ll be introducing the horse to curbing . However don’t necessarily expect the Pelham to work identically to the equivalent double bridal as the Pelham is a slight compromise. 

As usual we make our final point.  Apply a liberal amount of common sense when considering your need for something like the Pelham and the needs of the horse must be paramount according to its individual circumstances.  Be the best rider you can be first and don’t try and address lack of your own riding ability with a silver bullet horse bit!