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Posts Tagged ‘horse bits’

Horse bits are the key to effective horse riding.  There are many dozens if not hundreds of different types of horse bit available in the market place with each one providing a different set of features which induce a particular effect on the horse’s behaviour.

The basic categories of horse bit are typically defined as Snaffles and Curb bits. Snaffles allow the rider to control the horse via direct pressure transmitted through the bit i.e. the same quantity of force exerted by the rider is applied to the horse via the bit.  In the case of a Curb bit the force is increased through the principle of leverage due to the design of the bit . Very simply a Curb bit can be pictured as a capital ‘H’ where the degree of leverage exerted is dependent on the length of the sides of the ‘H’, known as the cheeks.  Also how far up or down the mouthpiece is i.e. how high the ‘-’ on the ‘H’ is, or more acurately the ratio between the ‘purchase’ and the ‘level arm’ impacts the severity of the bit and its action on the mouth and head .

It is essential at this juncture to point out that this fundamental difference between a Snaffle and a Curb bit, and the difference in force applied to the horse, requires that the rider carefully evaluates the need for a Curb bit.  They must also take a good honest look at their horse riding skills and their ability to use the Curb bit correctly. In fact don’t fit one without appropriate training.

It is often stated that the Curb bit gives greater control. The word control can suggest the need to inflict discomfort on the the horse to be the master and this is wrong . A better view is the Curb bit allows you to ‘instruct’ the horse in what you want more firmly, fairly and effectively with a Curb vs a Snaffle. As one develops as a rider the instructions can become more sophisticated and result in the ability to trigger a wider range of movement from the horse .  Also remember as you develop as a rider your skills will become more subtle and you will loose the somewhat narrow view that the bit ‘controls’ the horse.  For example you can ask the horse to move in certain ways using just your legs and seat and not just yank the horse with the reins. 

More advanced riders that have begun to master the art of subtle and effortless riding sometimes progress to double bridles e.g. Weymouth bit and Weymouth Bradoon.  At this point the rider is fine tuning their interaction with their horse, achieving fine levels of control and responsiveness without any of the roughness and heavy handedness associated with the Curb in the hands of an junior rider. 

To summarise the Curb bit is an essential tool for the more experienced rider whom is progressing with their horse to different levels of horsemanship .  However you must be sure that both you and the horse are ready for that move. If you are sure you are ready to evolve to using a curb bit for your horse but are not totally sure on the type always err on the side of caution and go for a milder bit . As always take advice from experienced riders and more than one if possible.

The different types of horse bits available can be somewhat overwhelming.  To the casual observer why the huge variety?   This variety has arisen over time in response to the needs of different riders and their specific activity.  Also what might be surprising to the non horse person is the sheer number of different types of horse based activities there are.  This variety has been an important driver in the origin of differently performing horse bits and especially in the competitive sphere where winning is important.

Probably the most commonly known horse activities are horse racing, equestrian events such as show jumping, and sports such as polo and driving.  The different horsemanship requirements in these very different areas require different horse bits to maximise the chance of success. 

In horse racing the Racing Snaffle or more generally the Dee-ring snaffle is one of the most widely used designs.  The Dee-ring snaffle has two rings either side of the mouthpiece which are shaped like a “D”. The straight bars of the Dee-ring is pulled against the side of the mouth opposite to the rein pulled, engaging with the side of the horse’s mouth to provide the ability to guide the horse and turn as required in a race.

Eventing is a multi-discipline event involving dressage, cross-country and show jumping and it is the wide variation in the skills required that tests the horse and rider to the limit. From the viewpoint of the event rider there are seemingly competing issues that might confound choosing perfect multipurpose horse bits.  On paper one needs very specific control during dressage, somewhat more free rein for jumping so that the horse can gain time between fences and finally in the case of cross country allowing the horse to efficiently apply power, without too many distractions.

In show jumping in general it is popular to use a bit that gives more control especially with a heavier horse that might lean on the bit or take hold.  Gag bits are a popular solution and when rein pressure is applied the bit slides upward rotating slightly in the mouth so giving a firm signal to the horse. Show jumpers find the Cheltenham a popular type of gag bit. The Cheltenham gag is a specific gag bit often used by show jumpers.  It has “eggbutt” rings, which remedies the problem of pinching found with the common loose ring snaffl.

Curb style bits are used where leverage is required which the snaffle cannot achieve.  In show jumping the swales 3-in-1 which is a modification of the old Swales driving bit has become popular with show jumpers whom have found it effective with strong horses which are common in show jumping events .  Also as the Swales doesn’t generate any poll pressure it works nicely with horses who tend to go overbent. 

Some horses have a tendency to rush off after clearing a fence and can therefore make control and judgement of next obstacle more difficult. It might be easy to opt for a curb bit that will pull up the horse but as is often the case it is desireable to train the behaviour into the horse rather than force behaviour by control. Be aware that a horse that rushes his fences may be reacting to a bit they are finding uncomfortable .

For dressage except for the upper levels, where the double bridle is allowed, horses are constrained to only go in snaffles. And only certain type of snaffles as well. Cross country is more flexibly governed and gag bits are popular choices .

The types of issues that the every day horse rider has to address in their choice of horse bit are not far removed from the issues of the experienced professional riders in horse racing, show jumping and the like.  However the effectiveness of the relationship between rider and horse is typically achieved through the intelligent hands of the rider and not using a specific bit to fix a particular problem

Horse bits are a very important ingredient in the success of the horse and rider’s relationship .  Literally dozens if not hundreds of different types of horse bit can be purchasedso needless to say it can be confusing identifying what you actually need for your horse .

The various horse bit types are broken down into different categories based on the features they have and how they control the horse. Within such categories are sub-categories with bits having different variations on particular features plus additional attributes that enhance its basic features .

At the top level of our horse bits categories sits Snaffles and Curb bits.  The term Snaffle covers quite a broad category of horse bits however they all exhibit a single common feature in that they allow control of the horse via direct force from the rider by the pulling of one or both reigns.

Physically all Snaffle bits are formed from a straight bar or mouthpiece with rings connected with different amounts of freedom to move at each end. The bit sits in the horse’s mouthresting on the gums not the teeth, in the space behind the front incisors and the molars behind sometimes termed the “bars”.

These two main features of the Snaffle are key to the way the bit behaves .  The mouthpiece can be a single solid piece or a jointed piece . Solid mouthpieces often come made in moulded rubber or vulcanite which is softer on the horse’s mouth and often used for young horses whilst they are being introduced to the bit . The jointed bit results in the mouthpiece breaking when the reins are pulled inducing a “nutcracker” effect on the horses tongue which provides the control.  The joint can be a single break or it can be two breaks resulting in the mouthpiece forming a “U” shaped instead of a “V” shape. This modification can give the horse’s tongue more room and can also be kinder on the roof of the mouth.  

The severity of the action of the mouthpiece may be increased by changing the mouth piece from being a smooth material such as stainless steel to using twisted pieces. The effect on the horse can be signficant and as a responsible owner always be very mindful of the welfare of your horse and seek expert advice ensuring the problem you are trying to solve is in fact addressed by such a bit . 

As ever there is a balance between being too soft on the horse and not firm enough. Going for the soft option can lead to bad habbits that are then more difficult to address later on and being too agressive can cause the horse pain and discomfort and is just bad in every way.

The rings on each end of the mouthpiece of the Snaffle are how the mouthpiece connects to the reins . Whilst simple in concept they still come in different forms with each type giving subtle effects which together with the mouthpiece provide varying types of control to your horse.  To introduce you this variety we will introduce some of the more common ring features seen on snaffle type horse bits.

Loose Ring Snaffles are where the rings connected to the mouthpiece are free to rotate and move back and forth causing the horse to chew and hopefully relax and not pull against you .  A quite common problem however with Loose Ring Snaffles is that they can be pulled though the horse’s mouth, plus they can pinch the sides of the mouth .  That brings us to Fixed Ring Snaffles which are not free to rotate but can move back and forth.  The Eggbutt and the D-ring Snaffle are popular examples.  They have “D” shaped rings rather than “O” shaped and the straight part of the “D” functions to help prevent the bit being pulled through the mouth, ie. if forms a brace against the side of the mouth in both directions.  The Eggbutt has a slightly softer edge to it’s “D” and is therefore kinder to the horse’s mouth.

The fixed ring effects can be further enforced by using a Full Cheek Snaffle Bit where there is a vertical piece of metal on each end of the mouthpiece as well as the ring. This piece provides a larger surface area in contact with the mouth sides compared to the D-Ring and EggButt and often to help it stay in the vertical position “keepers” are used to hold it in place. Not only do full cheeks prevent pull through of bit they can provide a mild leverage effect and also encourage the horse to move in the direction required.

This is just a brief introduction to the features of Snaffle Bits.  As you can see by careful understanding of your horse’s behaviour and how to control him you can find a Snaffle bit to suit your needs.

Learning to ride horses correctly and effectively is arguably more difficult than learning to drive a car. Driving a car is primarily about following rules, and once you can drive one car you can pretty much expect to drive any car with a short period of re-adjustment. Horses have some rules but you have the added ‘feature’ of individualism. Learn to ride one horse and get on another and the techniques you used on the first horse might be ignored, or worse still interpreted differently by the second horse. Imagine driving off in your nice new car, hitting the brakes and nothing happening because you were using the wrong brake.

So in order to get a specific horse to work the way you want you need to grab a copy of his own individual instruction manual. Most riders just read a generic “horse riding basics” manual and never get around to reading “Grey Mare called Dotty – A Detailed Instruction Guide V4.2.  Author – Dotty !!!”.

Horse bits and their different types are numerous however there are 2 main categories that most fall into, namely Snaffles and Curbs. Most riders and most horses begin with a Snaffle and rein control of the horse occurs via direct pressure applied by the reins to the bit. Typically as the horse gets older and possibly more petulent and the rider more confident it is common to use different variations of the Snaffle such as a French Link Snaffle. If the horse becomes stronger relative to the rider a curb type bit such as a Swales might then be used which introduces leverage to control the horse.

The overriding thread that should always run through any choosing of a horse bit is if the horse likes it, goes well in it whether it be a Pelham, an Eggbutt Snaffle or whatever then go for it. However the discussions on the subject of bit choice typically revolve around the concept of control and a leverage bit with its power often is the conclusion. However quality horsemanship is achieved by identifying and refining a set of signals that your horse responds to. This is where the Double Bridle has arisen as a practical but somewhat specialist approach that combines features of both snaffle and curb bits.

The double bridle in the hands of an experienced rider, allows one to signal the horse in a more nuanced way. For advanced and sophisticated forms of riding such as dressage it is a popular bit.

The double bridle consists of four reins attached to two separate bits. The bits are a bradoon snaffle and a curb bit. A bradoon is a snaffle bit designed to be complementary to the curb bit. For example it must not too wide and placed higher in the mouth so it stays clear of the curb bit’s port. The curb bit or the Weymouth provides the rider with the ability to engage curb pressure when needed. The mouth pieces must be thin enough so the horse can accommodate the bits but not so thin that the tongue gets caught. It can be a good idea to search out a custom horse bit maker to to get a complementary set that will fit your horse.

The rider needs to master the art of keeping both bits under their control but only applying either as necessary. In dressage the rider will keep a soft handed contact with the bradoon bit and only employ the curb bit to get the horse to collect.

But here lies the magic of this dual bit solution and for the advanced rider it is the perfect solution.  But beginner stay away – your time will come.

The bit truly is the key to the horse. The relationship between horse and rider can be complex and many riders jump too quickly to conclusions regarding their riding problems . Horses are personalities in their own right and how you successfully control them, whether in horse racing, show jumping or just a sunday afternoon ride is not just about the bit. It is how you, your horse and the bit work together. Don’t forget it might be you that is the problem and not the horse. In this article we will review what different horse bits bring to this relationship, plus how you and the horse need to work in synergy .

For a working relationship between the rider and the horse the bit is essential for success , and finding the correct type of bit can be a challenge and often relying on luck in the end .

By correlating what you observe in your horse’s behaviour with the variety of bit features , one can become more confident about the bit you choose, however neatly categorising different horse bits and their specific function is difficult.  Many of the features of horse bits are often mixed together to form new varieties, however for our purposes in this article we will create some broad definitions that will form the basis of future discussion.

What follows is a brief overview of horse bit types.

Snaffles are known as direct pressure bits. When the rider pulls back on the rein, the same amount of force is transmitted directly to the horse bit . This style of bit is particularly effective when training a new horse but it can be used at anytime.

Curbs bits are different to snaffles and rely on leverage . The physical construction of the bit is designed to generate leverage amplifying the force applied by the rider . The longer the bit shank or cheek length the more force will be generated . Due to this leverage effect and potential discomfort to the horse, curbs are best used in the hands of a more experienced rider whom has developed a more sensitive touch.

Combos .  The snaffle and curb effect can be found in one bit with some bits such as Pelhams and Gags.

To complement these basic principles of horse control there are a wide variety of bit attributes giving great flexibility to the knowledgeable rider looking to address particular issues with their horse.  As an example the swales 3-in-1 bit offers a number of combinations of features.  The swales is popular with riders with strong horses.  This controlling force is applied through a curbing action and can be varied by choosing a specific shank length.

One can also choose a different physical composition for the bit, for example copper offers a affect that encourages the horse to salivate and can lead the horse to being more responsive to the bits action. Whereas a rubber bit is a gentler bit and often a good option for the younger horse as they are learning to correctly respond to the will of the rider and the action of the bit.

A stronger bit might subsequently be necessary if the rubber bit is not allowing sufficient control such as when the horse gets bigger or more canny.  Having said that when the horse works well with the soft bit do not feel obliged to change as the horse gets older. As the saying goes “if it aint broke dont fix it” which is often a good philosophy with horses .

Modifying port height in the bit is another variable you might consider. The height of the port can allow more room for the tongue but when the reins are pulled more force is put on the horse’s palate e.g. High Port Pelham. Be sure to carefully evaluate your requirments and speak to a professional if in doubt .

To summarise one can physically control the horse with direct or indirect force. Also the bit can be designed to provide greater or lesser amount of force depending on the horse.  The behaviour of the horse can be affected by adjustments to the mouth piece form and even its composition such as copper or rubber.

In coming articles we will look at some typical behavioural issues with horses that can be addressed by exploiting different bit forms.  Your horse deserves love and respect and never simply apply these general rules in a narrow minded way .  Your horse cannot talk but he is definitely trying to help you solve your problem.

Quite a  typical question that comes up in the horse circles and even outside is what is the distinction separating English and Western types of horse riding.  As is often the situation with horse styles and equipment, the answers lies as a mix of historical past, function and tradition.  A significant number of the particulars of horse riding equipment appear from these exact same principles.  Equine bits are primarily functionally derived but these capabilities possess a lot to do with the way horses have been employed in history and tradition.

With the advent of cattle hurding and the prolonged treks carried out to transfer the steers across the enormous expanses of the US, the man and horse mix was the clear solution to manage this. The beginning of the cowboy lead to a distinct need for purposeful riding.  And so it is that the Western approach of riding was created. 

The Western saddle is born from the need for the cowboy to do the job efficiently and work significant quantities of time touring on horseback.  The equipment used was certainly intended for functional riding. 

English riding developed most of its formative direction from the european mounted military disciplines.  These days the epitome of English riding is exhibited by the styles of riding, such as Dressage, Polo and Eventing and the specialised equipment such as horse driving bits.  A clear difference between the two styles of English and Western riding is that English type riding is likely to have two hands on the reins, whereas due to the nature of the cowboy’s function these riders have a tendency to use a solitary rein, with the free hand employed for herding duties.  Cowboys are multi taskers .

It is now interesting to consider the differences between English and Western bits. It is the bit that exhibit the broadest variation. The fully finished Western horse could be usually observed in longer shanked curb, that of course allow strong signalling of intent to the horse, which is obviously desireable once the rider has a job to do in the case of the cowboy.  It have to be stated nevertheless that there has to always be space for talented horsemanship, and careful signalling to the horse without having brute power that the curb bit is naturally capable of.

English bits can also see longer shank styles but they tend to be smaller than Western style similar to with the currently fashionable Pelham type. 

You will find that western and english bits can be manufactured from alternative metals including  sweet iron bits and copper bits

The most significant variation separating “English” and “Western” bridles is the bit. A lot of totally trained or finished “Western” horses are expected to finally ride in a curb bit with a solitary pair of reins that has considerably lengthier and looser shanks compared to the curb of an English Double bridle or a pelham bit. Over time there have been two designs of Developed reins created. The longer split reins which are completely separated and common of the Texas tradition, or alternately the “Romal” reins that are seen as the Californian tradition and that are closed-end.  They also have a quirt whch is a long solitary attachment on the end and applied most properly to keep the steers under control. Youthful horses are much more typically started with either a simple snaffle bit, or with hackamore kind of vaquero.

Most horse bits follow the principle of either direct pressure or leverage pressure.  The Pelham bit offers in principle the best of both worlds.  However using a Pelham is not a panacea , and like all horse bit choices it requires some careful evaluation of what the problem actually is that you are trying to solve, and what type of bit or attribute of a bit might help address that problem.

Just for some simple background horse bits most commonly are divided into two types. Snaffles are what are called direct pressure bits where force is applied directly to the bit and on to the horse. Curbs bits are leverage bits where the force is applied via reins to cheek pieces that act as levers so a stronger horse can in theory be controlled by the same forces used with a Snaffle. It is much better to avoid using the term “control” when discussing how best to ride your horse.  Consider using the term “signaling” instead. . In other words the horse does what you want him to do happily because during your training together your have instilled in your horse that specific signals created by specific rein control require that the horse does specific things.  Considering the concept of signals therefore, sometimes one needs to switch to a stronger signaling mechanism for certain situations.  It may be that 99% of the time a Snaffle works just fine but just 1% of the time the extra leverage of a Curb would just bring the horse back on track.  

Once you decide you need to tweek your snaffle work with a bit of curb action, the solution often is to fit a double bridal such as a weymouth and bradoon, where the weymouth provides the Curb mechanism and the bradoon is the Snaffle part.  The bits are truly used independently so require a good degree of horsemanship to work with two sets of reins .

However a issue can arise with fitting two separate bits into a horse’s mouth.  Is the horse’s mouth big enough ? .  Do not go down the road of sourcing these two bits with very narrow wire mouthpieces just to force the issue of getting this to work . This is potentially cruel. Don’t to it.  

The solution to this issue if offered by the Pelham bit . It provides in one neat package the features of a snaffle and a curb bit.  The familiar “99% of the time” signal of the snaffle can be achieved with one set of reins via the single mouth piece and the “1% of the time” stronger signalling achieved via the curb rein again via the single mouth piece.

All the features that one may look for in individual snaffles and curb bits can be obtained in a good quality Pelham such as high port pelham, rubber or vulcanite mouth pieces or longer cheek lengths.  If you are migrating from a Snaffle try going for one similar to the Snaffle you currently use.  Consider also going for a rubber mouth if not already doing so as you’ll be introducing the horse to curbing . However don’t necessarily expect the Pelham to work identically to the equivalent double bridal as the Pelham is a slight compromise. 

As usual we make our final point.  Apply a liberal amount of common sense when considering your need for something like the Pelham and the needs of the horse must be paramount according to its individual circumstances.  Be the best rider you can be first and don’t try and address lack of your own riding ability with a silver bullet horse bit!